Mapping Amsterdam.
North, East, South, West. Bakeries are everywhere in the city. And they're bloody great.
When I came to Amsterdam in January – jobless, friendless, a little gormless – I decided to get to know the city through its bakeries.
That’s not as strange as it sounds. It’s what I do in any new place: take me on a city break and I’ll spend each morning hitting up a different bakery. And I don’t mean the viral bakeries that do the croissant-that’s–bigger–than–your–head, but the real ones. Where locals go to. For the pastry you’ve probably never heard of.
It gives you true insight into a place. A taste of the real life, much realer than the visiting crowds on the main square. Bakeries aren’t just bakeries, they’re community spaces. And I'm much more interested in finding communities than anything else. I swear that people who go to bakeries regularly lead richer lives. It means they care about stuff. Those are my people, wherever I am.
(But seriously, try it: next time you’re away, structure a long morning around visiting 3 bakeries. Let me know how it goes!)
In Amsterdam, I had no idea what I'd find. I was blown away by what I did! People talk about bakeries in Paris, San Fransisco, London… but Amsterdam's offering is truly next level.
There are dozens of bakeries here. The quality is exceptionally high. People are fiercely loyal to their favourites. Some feel old school. Others are firmly Tartinesque. Flavour hasn’t been forgotten (although fads are creeping in).
Thanks to hopping on my bike and visiting bakeries, I’ve gotten to know Amsterdam. And because I started recording my adventures on Instagram, you’ve gotten to know me too. It’s been the loviest way of mapping my new life, and I couldn’t be happier.
I’m starting this newsletter because I want to keep chatting with you. I’d like to find more friends. I’ll talk more about baking, and food in general, and what it’s like in Amsterdam, and maybe some other bits like fiction and poetry and thoughts… and if you’re really lucky, I’ll feature my dog too.
Anyway, thanks for being here. Love you.x
Terras Living
One thing I love about Amsterdam is how, come summer, the city erupts in terrassen. Nearly every café, bar, restaurant and eatery spills out onto the street like confetti from a gun. I’ve seen tables crammed along canals and lining the roots of deep-green trees.
Nothing beats having a drink on the street at a wobbly table, watching cyclists almost kill pedestrians.
You don’t get this in London. We’re not allowed such spontaneity. Well, we were during Covid when London became the most al fresco place on Earth. Then Covid ended and curtain twitchers killed our fun.
The best terras I’ve been to? It might be Twee Prinsen – theirs was the most haphazard, a real stool-in-the-cobbles moment. Delicious beer. Chilled wine. Big tree. Bliss.
Recent Eat
This is going to seem like a offbeat choice, but I’ve been OBSESSED with the almond croissant from District Coffee for a while now.
If you’ve not had it, it’s a little kiss of a thing: small, texturally perfect. Almondy, but not marzipany. Dusted with a lung-shrivelling amount of icing sugar. I especially love the nubby ends that shatter in your mouth like breaking a promise not to gossip.
Side note: can we please show some love for smaller pastries? I don’t want everything to be the size of my face. I’m off to Greece soon and my body’s pizza dough. Small things are good. They’re chic. They demand our attention because if you’re not careful, you’ll sink it in two bites and forget you even had it.
Anyway, I don’t know if District make these almond croissants themselves. The queue is usually so long that I don’t want to make it any longer by striking up conversation. So if you have intel, it’s welcome.
Eat and speak. I wanna know what you think.
Some GOOD recipes for you
Recently I have made and thoroughly enjoyed:
THESE CHOCOLATE COOKIES. In all my years of professional baking, I’ve never found a better recipe. So thank you Ravneet Gill, you are truly a hero.
Jon Kung’s danmuji, which is a Korean pickle. These are the ultimate snack (and Jon’s a snack too).
This Dutch pancake because, well, you know. It was really fun to make with my niece! The way it dramatically puffed up in the oven? High camp.
Georgina Hayden’s spanikopitia. I love Taverna, it’s one of my favourite cookbooks and this spinach and feta pie never disappoints. Just wash the spinach. Loads.
Anything Brendan Pang. This guy is LEGIT. All his recipes are sound. They work. I love reliability in the kitchen because who’s got the time or money for underwhelming food?
OK BYE!
Getting to know the city is also getting to know all of you. So please say hello! And send me any recommendations you might have!
Until next time.Xx
Fantastic Tomek - loved the Instas, loved this! J
A bakery morning is the best morning! What a thrill when you find a classic done perfectly (and, conversely, what a disappointment when you've been led astray to a trendy place that does not deliver). I'm currently on the hunt for the best bread in Amsterdam so if you have any recommendations, I'm all ears.