Word of Mouth: Selin & Steph, Esra
They run the hottest restaurant in town, but where do they eat?
Esra is the kind of restaurant Amsterdam has been crying out for. Firstly, the part-Turkish food is uniquely delicious. This is unsurprising – head chef Selin owned big hitting Oklava in London and won The Great British Menu, a show where the UK’s finest chefs – I’m talking one and two Michelin star juggernauts - go head-to-head in the kitchen, shovelling heaps of butter onto hake fillets and creating desserts that mechanically open with the tap of a spoon.
Secondly, the service, headed up by Steph, is sensational. A common thread of my Word of Mouth series, in which I interview Amsterdam’s finest food producers about where they like to eat in the city, is that the service here can be highly questionable. Not at Esra, where I was treated as a guest, not just a diner, and made to feel as if my night was not just about me, but somehow specifically for me.
Finally, the vibe is great, with its wall-to-ceiling window and long chef’s table jewelled with a bowl of ripened vegetables. At night, the restaurant glows like a ruby in the rock. And while Esra is new, it already feels well-rooted, even a little canonical. Esra isn’t just the name, it’s also, somehow, a feeling of trust.
Owners Selin and Steph are a powerhouse couple not only in their professional lives, but in their personal ones too. To me, there’s always something that little bit sweeter about couple-owned businesses. In being able to read each other’s minds, two people can create something very three-dimensional. They moved to Amsterdam in 2020, spurned by Covid, as many of us were. Now, they’ve breathed new life into the city’s dining scene.
When I first asked them about contributing to this series, they mentioned they kept a list of recommendations. I’ve been itching to read it since. So, click and unclick your biro and get ready to take some notes…
—
Favourite coffee?
Morning Owl Coffee on the Zeedijk. Relatively close to us, so perfect for a morning stroll with the dog. It doesn't hurt that said dog absolutely adores the owner, Casey, as do we. He's incredibly knowledgable in a super approachable way, and just generally a really nice human being. He made me (Steph) an iced coffee espresso thing (sorry Casey, I'm sure that's not the name) with sparkling water and bitters over the summer and it was revelatory.
Favourite restaurant?
Zoldering. We hope mentioning it in this interview gets us in their good books and results in an inside line, because getting a reservation here is challenging. Almost always fully booked, with good reason. It's just really delicious (and dependably so), the wine list is amazing, it's got great hospitality. These folks know what they're doing. The full package.
Favourite cheaper eat?
We really tried hard to come up with something, but between the two of us we order so much nothing is ever really cheap. But if we fancy a take-away, which falls into the more casual category, we go for Phu Thai on the Koningsstraat near Nieuwmarkt. Yes, it's a 5-minute walk from our house, and yes, we get it delivered anyway because we are creatures of convenience. The kitchen is run by a team of no-nonsense ladies, the food is full of flavour, spice, punchiness and goodness. Phad Sie-Eiew and Pork Laab for the win.
Favourite place for drinks?
We've just opened a restaurant so the answer to that is currently: at the kitchen counter at Esra, shoes off at around midnight when everyone has left for the night. But if our shoes are on and the restaurant is closed: Twee Prinsen. Cutest button of a bar, great wines, decent snacks, have spent many a night and many a euro here. Coming in hot to contest them for the title of favourite drinking establishment: Cafe de Linden. Super comfortable, wines from the team behind Zuiver (can't go wrong there), and just generally really upstanding human beings that run it.
What does Amsterdam do well?
Look pretty. Nothing beats a stroll around the canals or even further afield. And since this is a food-themed interview: nothing beats a stroll around the canals with a belly fully of food and then popping into a brown bar for one last little beer or glass of wine before turning in for the night.
What does Amsterdam suck at?
Jon and Jakub also mentioned service, so we won't mention it again (but Amsterdam, c'mon). Also: we wish more people were pushing the boat out when it comes to cooking food. The restaurant business is notoriously difficult, margins are extremely tight - and never more so - and it feels like this has resulted in many restaurants going with tried-and-tested concepts and dishes. The food scene could do with that bubble and fizz of chefs taking risks and trying something new and different. Selin would also like to add: Amsterdam sucks at weather.
What one thing would you transplant from another city to Amsterdam?
Can we transplant a quarter of London's food scene over here? It's just got a breathtaking range, and we miss it. Say you fancy Sri Lankan. You can go for home-cooking at a mom-and-pop establishment in Tooting. You can stand in line for incredibly hip (and super delicious) Hoppers in Kings' Cross, or head to Rambutan and pop up at the kitchen counter for a super fun night. Want to take the in-laws out? Then head to Paradise Soho and go more fine dining.
Yes, we know, this is a food interview about Amsterdam, but if we could transplant one thing here it's the breadth and scale of dining options in London (that we miss so much and while we were there, sadly took for granted).
OK BYE!
If you like what you’re reading, please consider supporting this publication by becoming a paid subscriber. Doing so will help me write stories about food. Alternatively, you can make a one-off donation here. Thank you.
Having moved from London myself, I do appreciate this little scoop of local gems from those who just get it! Thank you for spreading the word 🙏